Radon FAQs

Radon gas is a naturally occurring element that’s odorless, invisible, tasteless, and chemically inert—but also radioactive. Formed by the natural radioactive decay of uranium in rock, soil, and water, it’s typically found at higher concentrations in basements and lower levels. That said, there are exceptions to this, depending on building HVAC configurations, temperature, and pressure variations.

The air pressure in a home tends to be lower than soil pressure, so the heightened pressure beneath a home or building can trap radon (and other gasses) under a property as it rises. Trapped radon gas rises through floors and walls, permeating a building’s air.

Only through radon testing. Otherwise, it’s undetectable. You have two options when it comes to radon testing: passive and active testing devices. Passive devices are generally inexpensive, and require no power to measure radon in the air. Active devices, or digital monitors, are costlier, as they use power and monitor continuously for radon.

It’s estimated that one out of every 15 homes has an elevated radon level (at the EPA guideline of 4.0 pCi/L or greater). But only 10-15% of homes that should be tested are tested, so that number could be much higher—potentially making it a much bigger problem. 

Unfortunately, yes. Elevated radon levels have been found in both brand-new homes and in homes over 150 years old since radon gas emanates from the ground. Regardless of age, foundation type, heating system, or building materials, you can only detect a home’s radon level through testing.

Radon gas decays into radioactive particles, which can enter the body and get trapped in the lungs. Some of those particles get exhaled, but what’s left in the lungs passes into the lung tissues, breaks down, and causes damage over time. Exposure to elevated radon levels might not necessarily lead to lung cancer, but it is typically years before exposure leads to onset, so that’s a risk better to not take.

The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the first leading cause of lung cancer in the United States for nonsmokers, and the second leading cause for those who do smoke.

No. Breathing radon does not cause short-term health effects, including shortness of breath, coughing, headaches, or fever.

Yes. The primary benefit of radon mitigation is the reduced risk of developing lung cancer. Certified radon mitigation systems typically begin to reduce radon levels within the first week of installation. As long as the radon fan is running, the homeowner will reap the benefits for years. An added benefit is that a radon system may lower a basement’s humidity levels by reducing infiltration of moist soil air.

Radon mitigation is a process that reduces indoor radon levels using something called sub-slab depressurization. This system is the industry standard, and it uses a fan to lower pressure beneath a foundation slab. The fan is aligned with dedicated piping that creates suction under (“sub-”) the slab, and exhausts it above-ground, reducing the radon gas from the building or home. Learn more about how radon mitigation works here.

Unfortunately, this has not been proven to be an effective way to lower radon levels. This is partially because soil radon levels build up to an even higher concentration when openings are sealed—so less soil air enters the home, but it contains even more radon gas. That said, sealing cracks, joints, and slab openings is a necessary step in sub-slab radon mitigation to redirect radon gas through pipes, so it can be expelled outside.

The components of all radon mitigation systems are similar: they all use a radon fan, manometer gauge, and PVC piping. But there’s no “one-size-fits-all” system. Your property type, foundation design, and initial radon gas measurement determine which system layout is best for your home. Our team reviews each individual property in-depth to find the best options for your property design.

In Northern Virginia, a typical full sub-slab depressurization installation will cost $1600 or less. But ultimately, cost is determined by a variety of factors, including home size and design. For example, a new home with builder-installed radon piping would reduce the cost; a property with crawlspaces, multiple slabs, or other challenging factors might run twice the typical pricing. Boulder Edge is committed to fair value pricing, so we offer free property reviews through photos or a site visit. That’s the best way to truly know the cost of a radon system for your home.

Yes, though it is minimal. Operating your radon fan and replacing the indoor air that’s drawn outside has energy costs. We use the most energy-efficient fans available, so it will only be about $35 to $50 per year added to your bill. For maintenance, our team recommends long-term testing (91 days or longer) after any home renovations or alterations, if your living pattern changes (i.e. someone moves into the basement), or just every few years. Maintenance costs typically depend on the test type you choose.

Boulder Edge installs a manometer gauge on every system, per EPA RMS guidelines and so you can keep an eye on the system’s functioning. A few tips to help you check this:
‍

• The manometer gauge is a visual vacuum “U”-tube indicator installed on the system pipe above the entry point. It’s filled with colored oil, which is a visual indicator of the radon fan’s suction. 
• When the fluid of the side connected to the pipe is higher than the other, then your system is working correctly.
• If both sides are even, the fan is off or not working. In that case, check your fan manual for repair steps.

This can happen for a variety of reasons. During home repairs or renovations, it’s possible the fan switch could be accidentally switched off, so check that first. Storms and high winds can also cause electrical surges and spikes that affect the fan. In that case, to release the surge, turn off your fan switch for three to five minutes, then turn it back on. The fan should start running again, but if it doesn’t, contact your radon mitigation specialist for service.

The fan runs continuously to prevent radon gas from reentering your home. If it is turned off for even a few hours, your in-home radon level will creep back to what it was pre-mitigation. Being turned off for any period also reduces the radon fan’s efficiency and quality, because ground moisture will enter the bearings and motor. It’s best to keep it running, even if you’re away on vacation: it only uses the wattage of a light bulb, so you don’t need to worry about energy usage.